Osteria Mozza at Hilton Singapore Orchard
Image credit: @osteriamozzasingapore
The idea of upscale restaurants used to terrify me. You could count on the food to be excellent, but everything around it—the presentation, posh interiors, and the pressure to behave all prim and proper—was somewhat distracting to me. I no longer have this affliction, but dining at Osteria Mozza reminded me of my preference for unpretentious restaurants that serve simple, homely food of the highest quality.
After closing its doors at Marina Bay Sands in 2018, Osteria Mozza has found a new home in Hilton Singapore Orchard. The Cal-Italian restaurant is co-owned by Nancy Silverton, the celebrated American chef, baker, and author known for sparking the artisan bread movement across the US in the nineties. Her focus on simple cooking with quality ingredients earned Osteria Mozza much acclaim, including a Michelin star for its original Los Angeles restaurant.
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Food at Osteria Mozza
Our menu for the evening followed a fairly typical Italian meal structure. We started with canapés, and what arrived were two dishes that contrasted one another almost comically.The first was Mozzarella di Puglia ($68++), a majestic mound of white cheese decorated with red cruschi pepper, and the second, Marinated Olives ($16++), was jumbled in a petite plate with chile d’arbol, confit garlic and orange peels.
Ironically, despite the difference in size and elegance, it was the Mozzarella di Puglia that had the more subtle flavour. The mozzarella was rich and savoury, with a slight muskiness. But it was nevertheless easy on the palate and never crossed into indulgence.
Osteria Mozza is said to be the only restaurant in Singapore to use cruschi pepper, which is an Italian sweet pepper. Those added some crisp, smokiness, and the slightest hint of spiciness. Enjoy the cheese with the fett’unta bread served on the side to get the most out of it.
The modest olives had more explosive characteristics. Notes of spice, tanginess and garlicky flavour coalesced into the flavour of the olive, which was itself sweet and crunchy.
Nancy’s Caesar ($23++) was our first antipasto. As the name suggests, Silverton’s fingerprints are all over this spin on Caesar salad, especially with the bread, which is her area of expertise. The crostini (toasted bread) was soft yet crunchy on the edges, and paired well with the salad.
The dish’s homely appearance belies a complex taste. Those large anchovies atop the salad were so salty, but then the lettuce added balance with its refreshing flavour, the egg added a creaminess, and it all came together to be greater than the sum of its parts.
The other antipasto we had was the Grilled Calamari ($22++). The chief flavour here is smokiness—even the lemon, which added brightness to the squid, was grilled. The romesco sauce also piled on the smokiness but in a different way, leaning sweet and garlicky as well.
And now, the mains. The small, ear-shaped Orecchiette ($32++) pasta produced a peppery burn at the back of my mouth, while the bits of savoury sausage meat and earthy Swiss chard added much depth of flavour. Texture-wise, the orecchiette had a delicate, melt-in-your-mouth texture that gave your tongue some respite from the heat.
Meanwhile, the Fonduta Ravioli ($38++) was anything but a quiet affair. It had a musky cheesiness that was almost overwhelming, but combined with the savoury undertones, it morphs into an exciting dish—though it does threaten to get too jelak.
As for the second round of mains, the Whole Branzino alla Piastra ($65++) impressed with its comforting flavours. Said to be one of Silverton’s favourite dishes, the simple pleasure one gets with this is down to the fresh Branzino fish that boasted herbal notes and crispy skin.
There was also the Pork Chop Milanese ($46++), a sizable slab of pork that was incredibly well-marinated, fragrant, and juicy, though it may be too oily for some.
Ambience at Osteria Mozza
Image credit: @osteriamozzasingapore
Osteria Mozza has the appearance of a luxurious restaurant, but there’s something about the way the space is arranged that gives it a more laid-back, communal vibe. If you want an even more atmospheric experience, there’s also the lush outdoor terrace that overlooks Orchard Road.
Osteria Mozza is a six-minute walk from Somerset MRT Station.
The verdict
For all the glamour surrounding Osteria Mozza, I was glad to find that the fare remained grounded in the simple sophistication that Nancy Silverton strives for. Here, you’re not paying for artistry or inventiveness, but rather good, soulful food. And that’s what really matters, doesn’t it?
For another great restaurant to check out, have a look at our Perch review. If you’re looking for interesting food to check out in Somerset, read our Ebi Bar review.
Address: 333 Orchard Road, Level 5, Hilton Singapore Orchard, Singapore 238867
Opening hours: Tue-Sat 5pm to 10:30pm
Website
Osteria Mozza is not a halal-certified eatery.
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Photos by Kay En Ze and Melvin Mak.
This was a media tasting at Osteria Mozza.
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